Denim

Denim, in American usage since the late eighteenth century, denotes a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp fibers, producing the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. The word comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nîmes, France, by the Andre family. Originally called serge de Nîmes, the name was soon shortened to denim. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans," though "jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for Genoa, Italy (Gênes), where the first denim trousers were made.A similarly woven traditional American cotton textile is the diagonal warp-striped hickory cloth that was once associated with railroadmen's overalls, in which blue or black contrasting with undyed white threads form the woven pattern. Hickory cloth was characterized as being as rugged as hickory wood—not to mention the fact that it was deemed to be worn mainly by "hicks"—although neither may be the origin of that term [from a nickname for "Richard"]. Records of a group of New Yorkers headed for the California gold fields in 1849 show that they took along four "hickory shirts" apiece. Hickory cloth would later furnish the material for some "fatigue" pantaloons and shirts in the American Civil War.The word dungarees, to identify heavy cotton pants such as overalls can be traced to a thick cotton country-made cloth, Dongari Kapar, which was sold in the quarter contiguous to the Dongari Killa, the fort of what was then known as Bombay (Hobson Johnson Dictionary). The word entered English with just this meaning in 1696 (OED). Dongri Fort was rebuilt in 1769 as Fort George, Bombay, where the first cotton mill was established in 1854. Dyed in indigo, the traditional cloth was used by Portuguese sailors and cut wide so that the legs could be swiftly rolled up when necessary. Thus, dungarees have a separate history.
DRY DENIM
Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production.Most denim is washed after being crafted into an article of clothing in order to make it softer and to eliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being washed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificially "distressed" to achieve a worn-in look.Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to factory distressed denim. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months,[3] though it is not a necessity for fading.Predominantly found in premium denim lines, dry denim represents a small niche in the overall market.
Selvage denimSelvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be located along the outseam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage denim is not completely synonymous with unwashed denim, the presence of selvage typically implies that the denim used is a higher quality.The word "selvage" comes from the phrase "self-edge" and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can’t fray like lower grade denims that have separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts.Shuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually stiched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics.Most selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural indigo dye is available in smaller niche denim labels. Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue.In response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950's, American denim manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms. The new looms produced fabric faster and wider (60-inches or wider), yet lighter and less durable. Synthetic dyeing techniques along with post-dye treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.Raw selvage is material that has not been washed once undergoing the dying process. It is especially desirable because the material will fade in the creases and folds of the jeans. This process is known as whiskering.

Jorts ( apparel )

A Jort (or Jorts, plural), a portmanteau of "jean-shorts", is a garment worn by women or men that covers the pelvic area, the buttocks, and the upper part of the legs (typically the part above the knee). Jorts are types of shorts that are made only from denim.Some restrict the definition of the jort to self-cropped pants made from denim (the classic "cut-off" jort), while others broaden them to include those denim shorts cropped and hemmed—and sometimes even pleated—at the knee. Jorts are still in wide use throughout the US. With the wide use of cellphones, jean shorts now often have a side pocket just to hold a cellphone. Most jean shorts have two back pockets and two side pockets.Black denim, store-bought jorts are popular in hip-hop and rap videos. These particular jorts usually extend below the knee, whether or not the waistband is worn at the waist. This usage of the jort emphasizes its diversity and ensures that jorts will be used well into the 21st century.Budweiser referred to jorts in its series of Real Men of Genius radio ads.The city of Grapevine, Texas has declared November 9 to be "Jorts Awareness Day."

Wide Leg Jeans

Wide leg jeans are a style of clothing popularized in the mid-to-late 1990s, especially by men trying to achieve an "alternative" style. For men, the style is also called hip-hop clothing and remains popular with this subculture in 2007. The quintessential brand of 'hip-hop' style wide leg jeans was JNCO, though other youth and ethnic oriented clothing companies manufacture them as well.In the United Kingdom during the original 90s fad they were known as "baggies" (not to be confused with The Baggies, aka West Bromwich Albion F.C.). However, this term faded with the original fad and now they are generally known as "wide leg jeans".Wide leg jeans differ from bell-bottoms in that the entire length of the leg is large in circumference whereas flare or bell-bottom jeans flare out below the knee. Wide leg jeans can be considered to be a variant of baggy jeans, which were also popular in the '90s.During Fall, 2007 wide leg jeans and pants became increasingly popular for women. Celebrity style influencers such as Kate Moss have helped to push the wide-leg jean trend into the mainstream, but despite this slim-fit pants and skinny jeans have still remained equally popular in 2007.Wide leg jeans and pants are usually at least 24" in circumference at the hem. Worn with a length just barely above skimming the ground, they completely cover a wearer's foot and shoes.

Skinny Jeans

Slim-fit pants (US) or Trousers (UK) have a snug fit through the legs and end in a small leg opening. Jeans may be cut in this style, and then are often called skinny jeans. Other names for this style include carrot leg pants, cigarette pants, drainpipes, peg leg pants, pencil pants, skinny pants, slimjims, tapered pants, old-school hood jeans or ice-cream cone pants. In some styles, zippers are needed at the bottom of the leg to facilitate pulling them over the feet. Stretch denim, with anywhere from 2% to 4% spandex, may be used to allow jeans to have a super-slim fit.The skinny style of pants for men originated in the 1950s with popular male stars such as Roy Rogers, Lone Ranger, Cisco Kid, Zorro and Gene Autry,[1] Marilyn Monroe, and Sandra Dee wearing their pants very slim to the ankle. Skinny jeans became most notable with country music stars and with with the birth of rock 'n' roll in the ’50s, when Elvis donned slim-fitting jeans and shocked the country with his gyrating dance moves. Skinny jeans and rock 'n' roll were inextricably linked to create the “bad boy” image that remains today. Skinny jeans were also worn by numerous rock bands, including the The Rolling Stones, and others.Drainpipe jeans (as they were then called) were also extremely popular in the punk movement of the late 1970s, worn by many bands and scene leaders such as The Clash, The Ramones, The Sex Pistols and were sold by the revolutionary shop Sex, run by Vivienne Westwood. The tight fit trousers were often customised with bondage-style zips or patches of other material, and were often worn tucked into industrial-style boots such as Dr Martens.Skinny jeans were also very popular in the 1980s, with most heavy metal bands in particular those in the thrash scene such as Anthrax, Megadeth, Metallica and Slayer. This was the trend for those who didn't wear spandex, which was popular with the dominant glam metal scene at the time. They were usually often worn with white high-top sneakers or basket-ball shoes. By the late 80's and early 90's, many hard rock bands such as Poison, Guns N' Roses and Mötley Crüe to Kiss, Bon Jovi and Slaughter, ditched the spandex and wore the form fitted jeans. However with the rise of grunge and hip-hop music in the early nineties and the post thrash movement, skinny jeans quickly went out of favour.
The trousers returned in the late 1990s and Early 2000s as they became favored by Garage revival bands and musicians, such as The Strokes. After the Indie Subculture started purchasing the now desired trousers,they began to be frequently stocked in U.S. stores in 2006. Kate Moss has been credited with inspiring the trend to women, and Dior designer Hedi Slimane credited for inspiring it for the men, although falsely. Among women, skinny jeans are most often worn tucked into boots or scrunched up over the wearer's footwear. Skinny jeans worn with flats are popular. In the early '00s The Libertines (particularly Carl Barat and Peter Doherty) used skinny jeans as part of their image (itself inspired by The Strokes' revival of drainpipes.) This was later adopted by more mainstream indie-pop / indie-rock and acts such as Test Icicles, Kaiser Chiefs, Kasabian, The Kooks and The Horrors, as well as comedians Russell Brand and Noel Fielding, increasing the popularity of skinny jeans amongst men.
Though skinny jeans (drainpipes) have only been worn by America's youth for a few years, they have been en vogue in Scandinavia and Southern Europe continually since the 1990s.

Sagging ( hipster )

Sagging is a manner of wearing pants or shorts below the waist, revealing some or all of the wearer's underwear, most commonly practiced by young males. It is closely associated with hip-hop music and fashion, and is also common among skateboarders and the Skate Punk music scene.Sagging is said to have its origins in the prohibition of belts among incarcerated inmates, when belts were confiscated to prevent prisoners hanging themselves. The fashion statement spread to urban youth, as it was perceived as creating a 'tough guy' image. Initially worn by Southern California gang members, it became popular when gangsta rap artists from Los Angeles became popular in the early 90s.
Types of sagging
The most common type is sagging is men wearing their jeans or shorts just low enough to reveal the waistband of their underwear, which is rarely viewed as being provocative. Sagging becomes more controversial when the jeans or pants are worn deliberately low to reveal more underwear. Again, most frequently most saggers just reveal a few inches of underwear, with jeans held just above the genital area by a belt (or sometimes purely by friction).Specific types of sagging include:Butt Sagging, where the jeans/shorts are pulled down at the rear only, sitting just below the butt.Straight Sagging, where the jeans/shorts are worn low all the way round, usually just below the hips, but not so low as the genital area, usually held up with a belt.Extreme Sagging, where as much of the underwear as possible is revealed, showing the entire butt and some or all of the genital area, often with jeans/shorts so loose that they are in constant danger of dropping right down.Double Sagging, where one, two or three pairs of shorts/pants are worn, with each layer revealing the layer beneath. This allows the overall sag to be much lower, and therefore more impressive.Although not true "sagging", which requires underwear to be shown, Freeball Sagging is often seen on beaches, where boardshorts or trunks are worn particularly low, without underwear.
Sagging Underwear
The type of underwear revealed by sagging varies according to personal taste, and often reveals a lot about the individual sagger. Popular types of sagging underwear include:Boxer Briefs are perhaps the most popular form of underwear for sagging, usually with a branded waistband clearly visible, such as Calvin Klein or Abercrombie and Fitch. Boxer Briefs are usually worn in black, white or grey, often with a brightly colored or contrasting waistband.Boxer Shorts, usually with bold patterns and colors. Boxers are popular for sagging because of their looseness, which means they can be pulled up out of jeans and made very obvious, often hanging down over the jeans waistband.Satin Boxer Shorts, are increasingly popular for sagging, usually in very bold, bright colors, or with repeated patterns such as spots, hearts or skulls etc. Satin Boxer Shorts are favored because the shine is good for attracting attention and are viewed as being daring, which more exhibitionist saggers enjoy.
Controversy
In early September, 2007, the city of Atlanta was debating whether to have the fashion statement made illegal under an ordinance sponsored by Council member C.T. Martin. This proposal caused considerable feedback.In March 2008, the Hahira City Council passed a highly controversial clothing ordinance, in the name of public safety, that actually bans citizens from wearing pants that are below the waist and reveal skin or undergarments. The council was split 2-2, but the tie was broken by the mayor.In many school districts across the United States, sagging is prohibited. The Virginia General Assembly tried, but failed to approve a law making the sagging style illegal in February 2005. In June 2007, the Town council of Delcambre, Louisiana passed an indecent exposure ordinance, prohibiting people wearing trousers which show their underwear.The American Civil Liberties Union has associated laws against sagging to be racial profiling. Benetta Standly, statewide organizer for the American Civil Liberties Union of Georgia stated, "In Atlanta, we see this as racial profiling... It's going to target people who are more likely to commit crimes. Understandably, there's a fear with people associating the way you dress with crimes being committed."

Not to be confused with

BaggiesBecause of the name "phat pants" some people who are not involved in the rave scene mistakenly confuse phat pants with baggy pants. Baggy jeans or "baggies" are a specific type of cut with wide legs, the same width all the way down the leg. They are closely related to loose fit and are sometimes incorrectly labelled as such.
FlaresFlares are another cut of jeans involving wider legs. The distinguishing feature of flares is that they are a normal fit from the hips to the knees and then widen out from the knees down to the feet.
Hammer PantsHammer Pants are sometimes confused with Phat Pants, but are actually very different cut. Whilst Phat Pants usually have a fairly high groin and taper out from the waist. Hammer Pants had a very low sitting groin and very wide hips, whilst tapering in towards the ankles.
Bondage/Tripp Pants Bondage pants (also known as Tripp pants for the most popular brand of bondage pants), which are similar in bagginess to Phat Pants, but generally have darker color. (Usually black or grey) Furthermore, bondage pants tend to have chains, buckles, rings, straps, and other similar items on them, giving them somewhat of a 'BDSM' look, whereas Phat Pants usually don't.

Phat Pants

Phat pants or phatties are a cut of jeans worn by male ravers that are fitted at the waist but get wider down the legs all the way to the ground where they enclose the feet due to their width. Phat pants are usually worn by ravers and can be used as a visual identifier. Usually made of denim, but can be made of any material. Male Ravers will often customise their phat pants by covering them with reflective materials of their own design, the brighter the better. This can help with recognition at raves.Phat pants are often worn with braces that are not designed to be worn over the shoulders. They are quite often too short to do this anyway. They hang loosely on the pants from carabiners at the waist, and are usually brightly coloured webbing with a reflective strip sewn down the middle. Usually, the binding ring at the back is a heavy metal, which helps the braces to swing out in an arc around the boy or man when spinning.
Popularity
Phat pants were adorned by male ravers in the early to mid '90s and can still be seen in the early to mid '00s and later. In most portions of North America, however, the reign of the phatties has passed and they are steadily becoming less prominent in the rave scene.
Designs
Phat pants come in many forms and designs, ready made or can be made to specific requirements of the guy.Phat pants are frequently adorned with a multitude of large pockets giving ravers a place to hold their water bottles, sweets, and whatever else may be necessary to get them through a weekend of partying.